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Fixed rope route

Dolomites without borders - Stage 3: Three Peaks - Rifugio Comici

1 Fixed rope route • Dolomites
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Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confine wird gefördert durch die EU, EFRE-Fonds und Interreg V-A Italia-Österreich, 2014-2020
    / Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confine wird gefördert durch die EU, EFRE-Fonds und Interreg V-A Italia-Österreich, 2014-2020
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Toblinger Knoten Einstieg
    / Toblinger Knoten Einstieg
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Leitern Toblinger Knoten
    / Leitern Toblinger Knoten
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Stollengang
    / Stollengang
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Stollen Paternkofel
    / Stollen Paternkofel
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Schlüsselstelle Paternkofel
    / Schlüsselstelle Paternkofel
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Zinnenblick
    / Zinnenblick
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
Map / Dolomites without borders - Stage 3: Three Peaks - Rifugio Comici
2200 2400 2600 2800 3000 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Toblinger Knoten Drei Zinnen Hütte (Rif. A. Locatelli) Frankfurter Würstel Paternkofel Büllelejochhütte (Rif. Pian di Cengia)
Weather

Dolomiti senza confini: 2 countries - 9 stages - 12 via ferratas - 17 refuges - 108 kilometers

Worthwhile summit crossing following in the footsteps of the First World War. Via ferrata Torre di Toblin and Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler up Monte Paterno.

medium
8.2 km
7:00 h
750 m
900 m
Torre di Toblin: D

From the summit the via ferrata offers stunning 360 degree panoramic views. The short but very steep and exposed ascent on the north face is largely via ladders (via ferrata ladders). This short stretch is a good trial stretch to discover if you can master the difficulties (difficulty to D) on the further stages. Descent via the eastern crest is easier and graded difficulty A,B.

 

Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler C

Varied via ferrata with access through a WW1 tunnel (head torch required!). This is the most frequented tour in the region and so “congestion” can occur, especially in August. Earlier in the season there is still some remaining ice in the tunnels and in the snowfields before Forcella del Camoscio. The crux is at the steep climb just after Forcella del Camoscio and is graded difficulty C. On the upside, you will be rewarded on Monte Paterno with direct views of the north faces of the Three Peaks.

 

Sentiero delle Forcelle: B

From the col of Monte Paterno you return via Forcella del Camoscio via the same path. In the steep section there are several possible descents to prevent congestion, but no-one bothers to observe those! Well secured via ferrata sections alternate with exposed passages.  During ascent and descent oncoming hikers must be expected every now and then.

Difficulty
medium
Technique
C/D
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Altitude
2739 m
2224 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Rest Stop

Drei Zinnen Hütte (Rif. A. Locatelli)
Zsigmondyhütte (Rif. Comici)
Büllelejochhütte (Rif. Pian di Cengia)

Equipment

Certified via ferrata set an helmet, alpine boots and gloves (for via ferratas).

Tips, hints and links

www.dolomitisenzaconfini.eu

 

Supported by EU, EFRE-Funds and Interreg V-A Italy-Austria, 2014-2020

Turn-by-turn directions

Torre di Toblin/Via ferrata ladders: D

Behind the hut starts the ascent to Torre di Toblin marked in red. It is recommended to use the demanding via ferrata ladders on the north face and to descend via the north-eastern flank (Ferrata Feldkurat Hosp) The quickest way to reach the access to the via ferrata ladders is to cross south at Torre di Toblin.  At the access there is a cross from which you cross the ledges into the north face. The short but extremely steep path is completely secured with steel rope and ladders. The distances between the anchors are gentle on the nerves and modern. From the summit the descent is via the north-eastern flank (Ferrata Feldkurat Hosp). This via ferrata with maximum difficulty B is also very modern with short distances. Of course you can also use this path for your climb - 1.5 hrs.

 

Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler  C

Past the Rifugio Antonio Locatelli the hike continues towards the well-known Salsiccia and on short stretches through rock tunnels and to the entrance of the Monte Paterno tunnel. (Don’t forget your head torch!). The path is defined and orientation is easy. In early summer you often come across fields of remaining snow just before Forcella del Camoscio, requiring you to carry light crampons. From Forcella del Camoscio you reach the crux, a short steep climb with difficulty C. There are two routes, whereby the left variant is intended for the ascent, the right for the descent.

The rest of the route to the summit of Monte Paterno is easy. The descent to Forcella del Camoscio is via the same route! 2 hrs.

 

Sentiero delle Forcelle: B

Follow the path from the Forcella del Camoscio in an easterly direction. Well secured via ferrata sections alternate with exposed passages. It is always possible to meet oncoming hikers as the tour can also be started from Rifugio Pian di Cengia.  A grassy slope takes us down to Forcella del Lago (2552m). From there the path takes us south past the ridge to the forestry path 104, from where it is another 10 minutes to Rifugio Pian di Cengia. - 3hrs.

From Rifugio Pian di Cengia (2528m) path 101 takes you in half an hour to Rifugio Comici (2224m). - 0.5 hrs.

Total 7 hrs.

Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco 017

Book recommendations for this region:

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Comments and ratings (1)

Björn Mußmann
2018-08-25
Die Runde um/über den Toblinger Knoten sollte den Wegmarkierungen am Fels folgend im Uhrzeigersinn und nicht wie hier im Track angegeben entgegengesetzt begangen werden. Dadurch hat man die steilen, teilweise senkrechten Leitern im Aufstieg und einen vergleichsweise moderaten, versicherten Abstieg vor sich. Außerdem scheint dies die Hauptgehrichtung zu sein. Ist man entgegengesetzt unterwegs dürfte mit ständigem Gegenverkehr zu rechnen sein...
Reviews
Done at
2018-08-13
Dolomiti senza confini - Dolomiten ohne Grenzen // Klettersteigtour an den Drei Zinnen
Dolomiti senza confini - Dolomiten ohne Grenzen // Klettersteigtour an den Drei Zinnen
Video: Gipfelfreizeit

Reviews
Difficulty
C/D medium
Distance
8.2 km
Duration
7:00 h
Ascent
750 m
Descent
900 m
Tour route Stage tour With refreshment stops classic via ferrata

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Lowest point
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