Start Tours Dolomites without borders - Stage 1: Rifugio Lunelli /Berti - Rifugio Carducci
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Fixed rope route

Dolomites without borders - Stage 1: Rifugio Lunelli /Berti - Rifugio Carducci

1 Fixed rope route • Dolomites
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Alpenverein Austria
  • Ferrata Roghel
    / Ferrata Roghel
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Lunelli Hütte
    / Lunelli Hütte
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Aufstieg zum Refugio Berti
    / Aufstieg zum Refugio Berti
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Wegweiser
    / Wegweiser
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Roghel
    / Roghel
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Forcella Picccola di Stalata, Grossglockner im Hintergrund
    / Forcella Picccola di Stalata, Grossglockner im Hintergrund
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Ferrata Cengia Gabriella
    / Ferrata Cengia Gabriella
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Luftige Traversierung
    / Luftige Traversierung
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Cengia Gabriella
    / Cengia Gabriella
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Wilde Landschaft
    / Wilde Landschaft
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Zwölferkofel, Rifugio Caducci
    / Zwölferkofel, Rifugio Caducci
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • Rifugio Caducci
    / Rifugio Caducci
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
Map / Dolomites without borders - Stage 1: Rifugio Lunelli /Berti - Rifugio Carducci
1800 2100 2400 2700 3000 m km 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 RIFUGIO LUNELLI SELVAPIANA - Comelico Superiore RIFUGIO BERTI - Val Comelico Via Ferrata Cengia Gabriella Rifugio Carducci
Weather

Dolomiti senza confini: 2 countries - 9 stages - 12 via ferratas - 17 refuges - 108 kilometers

Very long and strenuous stage in a remote and wild environment with Alpine via ferratas Roghel and Cengia Gabriella (difficulty C,D).

 

difficult
7.2 km
9:30 h
1900 m
1100 m
Via ferrata Roghel: C, section D

Because of its length and demands, this stage is less frequently walked. There are hardly any other via ferratas in the Alps in such a wild environment. The route therefore requires solid Alpine experience and reliable weather conditions. Especially in early summer when there are still some old snow fields around, it is recommended to pack light crampons and an ice axe in your backpack. The crux of this tour is the very steep upper section of the via ferrata Roghel, where strong arms are required. If there are several climbers in the group, there is a risk of falling rocks in this steep draw. Long distances between the anchors require secure climbing and Alpine experience. The via ferrata is reasonably well secured but this could be improved. Because there is no simple short descent the tour must be continued using via ferrata Cengia Gabriella. The only refuge would be the Bivacco Cadore situated between the two via ferratas.

 

Via ferrata Cengia Gabriella: B,C

The route across Cengia Gabriella leads through the eastern and southern flank of Monte Giralba di Sotto to its west face. As a day tour from Rifugio Lunelli via both via ferratas to Rifugio Carducci, this is a long enterprise with over 1900m altitude. Top fitness and reliable weather conditions are required. On the upside, you will be on a little used route in a fantastic landscape!

Difficulty
difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Altitude
2593 m
1562 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Rest Stop

Rifugio Carducci
RIFUGIO LUNELLI SELVAPIANA - Comelico Superiore
RIFUGIO BERTI - Val Comelico

Equipment

Certified via ferrata set an helmet, alpine boots and gloves (for via ferratas).

Tips, hints and links

www.dolomitisenzaconfini.eu

Turn-by-turn directions

From Rifugio Lunelli (1568m) follow the signs to Rifugio Berti. Just below the hut you cross a stream. - 1 hr.

From Rifugio Berti take the slightly wider path no. 152 to the sign Ferrata Roghel. The path marked with red dots runs steeply to the access to the via ferrata. Beware old snow fields at the access point! - 1.5 hours

 

Ferrata Roghel: Difficulty C, section D

Via ferrata almost entirely secured with steel rope with some steep sections. There are long distances between some of the anchors and they are not very well tensioned, which is particularly uncomfortable for the second climber. The crux is a steep rock step in a stack that demands considerable arm strength. In the upper section the via ferrata leads into a large stack-like draw with several steep sections. The rocks at the exit to Forcella tre le Guglie are particularly fragile and groups of several climbers must be aware of a risk of falling rocks. Descent starts across ledges and then left towards the western flank. It is largely secured with a steel rope. The path continues via a scree gorge to the foot of the rock face. 2 hrs.

 

Ferrata Cengia Gabriella: B,C

From the lowest point (2300m) in the high valley of Ciadin di Stallata a clearly visible marked climbing trail leads through the grass-covered cirque and then on towards the west to the access (100 m altitude). The scree-filled draw at the access is often filled with snow well into the summer and the use of crampons is advisable. Continue along the high route on Monte Giralba di Sotto, where demanding stretches are well secured with a steel rope. At times, the path runs “cheekily” along the precipice and requires absence of vertigo and surefootedness. Tightropes help with the descent at the foot of Monte Giralba di Sopra. - 4 hrs.

On the trail to the hut that runs through Val Giralba Alta you reach the Rifugio Carducci (2297m). - 1 hrs.

Total 9.5 hrs.

Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco 017

Book recommendations for this region:

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Comments and ratings (2)

Anna Erlacher
2018-10-09
Wahnsinnstour! Ich fand die Tour weniger körperlich als mehr mental sehr fordernd. Man geht sehr oft an den schmalen Dolomiten typischen Felsbändern entlang OHNE Sicherung auch über steile Wiesen hinauf und Schotter herab. Die Klettersteige selbst sind nicht so fordernd, eher wie mein Vorredner schreibt der zweite Abstieg ist nicht ohne, weil man doch schon müde ist nach dem langen Tag. Kann die Tour jedem empfehlen der einsame Abschnitte in den sonst überlaufenen Dolomiten sucht, aber man darf die Tour auf keinen Fall unterschätzen!
Done at
2018-08-16

Philipp Steurer
2018-08-28
Persönlicher Erfahrungsbericht vom 22.8.2018: Herrliche und wirklich sehr lange kräftezehrende Tour abseits vom Massenwandern. Von Lunelli bis Carducci haben haben wir (geübt und gute Kondition) mit einer kurzen Kaffeepause bei Berti 10:37 Stunden gebraucht. Spätestens um 8 Uhr aufbrechen und genügend Wasser und Energieriegel mitnehmen. Von der Schwierigkeit würde ich eher die langen Abkletterpassagen beim zweiten KS als kräfteraubend bewerten. Meine Uhr hat mir von den HM leicht abweichende Werte aufgezeichnet: 1550 hm rauf und 822 hm runter bei 8,96 km Wegstrecke. Durch die Gewitteranfälligkeit gegen Abend kann ein zu spätes Aufbrechen sehr unlustig werden ... dabei nicht zu schnell zu Lunelli fahren, vergangene Woche war ein Blitzer nach dem anderen
Reviews
Done at
2018-08-22

Reviews
Difficulty
difficult
Distance
7.2 km
Duration
9:30 h
Ascent
1900 m
Descent
1100 m
Tour route Nice views

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