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Alpine Route

Dammastock Ostgrat

Alpine Route · Göschenen
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Stefan Gloor
  • /
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • / Sonnenaufgang beim Klettereinstieg
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • / Grosses Schneefeld
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • / Grosses Schneefeld
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • /
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • /
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • /
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • / Schlüsselstelle vom Stand fotografiert (IV-)
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • /
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • / Dammastock
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • / Blick über den Rhonegletscher
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
  • / Zur letzten Ab
    Photo: Stefan Gloor, Community
m 3800 3600 3400 3200 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km
Die spektakuläre Seite des höchsten Gipfel der Zentralschweiz.
moderate
Distance 3.3 km
5:30 h
1,206 m
4 m
3,629 m
2,436 m

Den markierten Pfad bis zum Gletscher folgen. Über die steile Gletscherzunge (2019) auf ein Gletscherplateau auf 3000 m ü.M. Den Gletscher queren und auf 3160 m ü.M auf den blockigen Grat. Bis zum Schneefeld mehrheitlich Gehgelände. Über das zunehmend steiler werdende Schneefeld (bis 45°) zum Grat. Am oberen Teil des Schneefeldes nach Norden queren und in die Rinne. Die Rinne baldmöglichst in Richtung Grat verlassen. Der erste Standplatz befindet sich bei einem markanten Übergang von weissem und schwarzem Gestein. Alle 25m findet man eine Abseilstelle an denen man sich im Aufstieg orientieren kann. Am Grat bleiben, im Zweifelsfall nach Süden ausweichen. Am Ende vom Grat Gehgelände zum Gipfel.

Abseilen: Die ersten beiden Abseilstellen sind sehr steinschlaggefährdet. Das 2. Abseilen bedarf 30m, bzw. Abklettern (Grad I). Fall sich noch Seilschaften im Aufstieg befinden empfielt es sich die Gipfelmulde am kleinen Grat südlich des Hauptgrates abzusteigen und die 3. Abseilstelle anzusteuern.

Risiko für Seilverklemmer ist hoch. Letzte Abseilstelle in Falllinie über einem kleinen Überhang direkt über dem Schneefeld

Difficulty
IV-, 45°, AD+ moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
3,629 m
Lowest point
2,436 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Belay stations
with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts, pitons, trad gear
Protection
with bolts, sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear
Rope length
1 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
6
First ascent

z. B. Trekkingrucksack mit Regenhülle, festes und gut eingelaufenes Schuhwerk, funktionale und strapazierfähige Kleidung, Teleskopstöcke, Sonnen- und Regenschutz, Kartenmaterial, Reisedokumente und Pilgerausweis

Start

Coordinates:
SwissGrid
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Note


all notes on protected areas

Coordinates

SwissGrid
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Difficulty
IV-, 45°, AD+ moderate
Distance
3.3 km
Duration
5:30 h
Ascent
1,206 m
Descent
4 m
Highest point
3,629 m
Lowest point
2,436 m

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