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Fixed rope route recommended route

Buchstein Südwandband

Fixed rope route · Alpenregion Nationalpark Gesäuse · open
Responsible for this content
TV Gesäuse Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • /
    Photo: Tourismusverband Gesäuse, TV Gesäuse
  • /
    Photo: Tourismusverband Gesäuse, TV Gesäuse
  • /
    Photo: Tourismusverband Gesäuse, TV Gesäuse
  • /
    Photo: Tourismusverband Gesäuse, TV Gesäuse
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    Photo: Tourismusverband Gesäuse, TV Gesäuse
  • / Einstieg
    Photo: Tourismusverband Gesäuse, TV Gesäuse
  • /
    Photo: Tourismusverband Gesäuse, TV Gesäuse
  • / Buchsteinhaus mit großem Buchstein im Abendlicht
    Photo: Stefan Leitner, TV Gesäuse
  • / Hütten im Gesäuse | Buchsteinhaus
    Video: Tourismusverband Gesäuse
  • / Blick vom Krautgartl zum Buchsteinhaus
    Photo: Stefan Leitner, TV Gesäuse
m 2200 2000 1800 1600 1400 4 3 2 1 km
An impressive wall climb with magnificent views along a diagonally running band system. Apart from easy walking passages, the via ferrata is secured throughout with steel ropes. No ladders or clamps.

 

Topo at: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettersteig/suedwandband-klettersteig-buchstein/

open
difficult
Distance 4.8 km
4:30 h
774 m
774 m
From the board over the stem to the ridge edge, around it to a large rubble terrace. Diagonally upwards to a deep rock shaft. Steeply up and to the right to a protruding ledge with a weakly pronounced Schartl. Exposed traverse 20m to a protruding spike. Continue on a wide, stepped band upwards under an overhanging, dark wall and further to a ledge at the "south pillar" (middle of the wall). In a stepped gully 20m down into a wall bay. From here diagonally right up and further along the wall on a weakly pronounced band up to a head under an overhanging ledge. In the following gully upwards to a large ledge and further towards the exit. Over the summit ridge to the nearby summit (2224 m).

Attention, the approach is only described from the Buchsteinhaus.

Author’s recommendation

Buchsteinhaus 1546M

from Gstatterboden first on Rauchbodenweg, then on trail 641 in approx. 2.5 h - from St. Gallen / Eisenzieher (only for experienced climbers) on trail 641 in 5 h. t: +43 3611/284 www.buchsteinhaus.naturfreunde.at

Großer Buchstein (2224 m): - normal route (only for experienced climbers) in 2 h - via Wengerweg climbing route II in 2 h - via Südwand-Klettersteig (A+B) in 2 h

 

 

National Park Pavilion

The highlight in the lumberjack village Gstatterboden presents itself as a well tied package: The National Park Pavilion. Here you can eat well, drink and enjoy the panorama on the sun terrace, as well as borrow (e-)bikes, find out more about the National Park and what it has to offer at the information desk, set off on mountain tours, or visit the effect-laden exhibition "Die Planspitze - Berg der Gegensätze".

May - October Exhibition daily 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. t: +43 664 82 52 313 Gastro Tue - Sun 10 a.m. - 10 p.m. continuous warm cuisine t: +43 3611 211 02

Profile picture of Tourismusverband Gesäuse
Author
Tourismusverband Gesäuse
Update: September 10, 2021
Difficulty
B difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Buchstein Südwandband, 2,224 m
Lowest point
Buchstein Südwandband, 1,546 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
400 m, 1:00 h
Wall height
250 m
Climbing length
420 m, 1:30 h
Descent
650 m, 2:00 h

Rest Stop

Buchsteinhaus, 1.546 m

Safety information

Absolute surefootedness and complete freedom from vertigo are absolutely necessary. Climbing experience is useful, insured passages must also be mastered in the descent.

Emergency call mountain rescue: 140

Tip for reporting an emergency - give answers to the six W-questions: What happened? How many injured? Where did the accident happen (possibly GPS coordinates)? Who is reporting (callback number)? When did the accident happen? Weather at the accident site?

Tips and hints

Tourismusverband Gesäuse

Hauptstraße 35, 8911 Admont, Österreich

Tel. +43 (0) 3613 21160 10

Email: info@gesaeuse.at

 

www.gesaeuse.at

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettersteig/suedwandband-klettersteig-buchstein/

Start

Buchsteinhaus (1,542 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Buchsteinhaus

Turn-by-turn directions

From the Buchsteinhaus, follow the path in the direction of the Gr. Buchstein and after 1 hour you will reach the entrance to the "Buchstein Südwandband".

The via ferrata climber can expect an imposing wall climb with magnificent views along a diagonally running band system. Apart from easy walking passages, the via ferrata is secured throughout with steel ropes. No ladders or clamps.

Height difference 250m. Walking time from the entrance 1,5 h. From the exit it takes another 10 minutes to reach the summit of Gr. Buchstein.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Von Hieflau oder Admont mit der Buslinie 912 Gstatterboden

www.oebb.at

www.busbahnbim.at

 

Gesäuse Sammeltaxi

Im Gesäuse bist du auch ohne eigenes Auto mobil. Ein Anruf unter +43(0)3613/21 000-99 genügt: Innerhalb der Betriebszeiten (täglich 08:00 – 20:00 Uhr) kommst du von Mai bis Oktober mit dem Gesäuse Sammeltaxi, vlg. Gseispur, zu jedem beliebigen Ziel im Gesäuse, ganz ohne Fahrplan und Haltestellen. Selbst für eine Anbindung an die Bahnhöfe Liezen, Selzthal und Kleinreifling ist gesorgt.        Einzelfahrt pro Person € 9,50   

Getting there

 A9 Phyrnautobahn bis Abfahrt Ardning/Admont und von dort an Frauenberg vorbei, ca. 10 km nach Admont. Über die B146 (Gesäuse Bundesstraße) von Westen kommend weiter ins Gesäuse bis Gstatterboden.

Oder über Leoben, Vordernberg und Eisenerz bis nach Hieflau und von dort über B146 in westliche Richtung ins Gesäuse bis Gstatterboden.

A1 Westautobahn bis Abfahrt Ybbs und von dort Richtung Süden durch Scheibbs, Lunz am See, Göstling an der Ybbs und Palfau nach Hieflau. Von dort über B146 in westliche Richtung ins Gesäuse bis Gstatterboden.

Parking

Parkplatz beim Bahnhof Gstatterboden oder beim Nationalpark-Pavillon Gstatterboden

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Rother Wanderführer Gesäuse

Author’s map recommendations

Carto.at / Wander-, Rad- & Schitourenkarte „Nationalpark Gesäuse“Gesäuseberge – Haller Mauern – Eisenerzer Alpen West, Nr. 801

M 1: 35.000 http://www.carto.at/gesaeuse/

 

Kompass/ Wander-, Fahrrad- & Schitourenkarte „Nationalpark Gesäuse“, Nr. 206

M 1 : 25.000  http://www.kompass.de/touren-und-regionen/wanderkarte/dest/100148-alpenregion-nationalpark-gesaeuse/

 

Alpenvereinskarte „Gesäuse und Ennstaler Alpen“, Blatt 16, M 1 : 25.000

http://www.freytagberndt.com/shop/9783928777346-alpenvereinskarte-16-ennstaler-alpen-gesaeuse/

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Via ferrata set and rockfall helmet. Sturdy mountain boots or good trekking shoes, as well as hiking backpack with appropriate contents (water bottle, blister plaster, hiking map, snack, etc.). You should also be well prepared for a change in weather.

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Status
open
Difficulty
B difficult
Distance
4.8 km
Duration
4:30 h
Ascent
774 m
Descent
774 m
Circular route Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route classic via ferrata

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