Dufourspitze, 4634m, in the Monte Rosa area, is the highest mountain in Switzerland and the second-highest in the Alps.
The “Cresta Rey” can be easily considered the “perfect line”! It rises up from the glacier exactly to the top of Dufour with a direct line; over it, it offers a first class rock quality: flakes, cracks and spikes assure a really enjoyable climb.
IV, 40°, D-schwer
20 Agosto 1874 Eustace Hulton with Josef Moser and Peter Rubi
This ridge, when in good conditions, offer a pure rock climbing ascent. In this case you can climb all the way up without the crampons. The ridge has, most of the time, difficulties of III° with only an overhanging step classified IV°. The descent along the regular route is still long and requires concentration.
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Rifugio Gnifetti (3.591 m)
32T 410780 5083574
Dufourspitze - Zumsteinspitze - Rifugio Gnifetti
Starting from Gnifetti Hut, follow the trail going to Margherita hut until the Colle del Lys; from here first go down along the Grenz Glacier to the altitude of 4000 meters. Climb up the small glacier between Dufour and Zumstein until the base of the ridge at the approximate altitude of 4200 meters. A short steep snow slope gives access to the proper ridge. Follow the ridge always as much as possible close to its edge and arrive exactly on top of the Dufourspitze 4634m. On the way back follow the Italian regular route crossing the summit of Zumsteispitze.