A steady hike with only poor markings and creek crossings to worry about.
Starting from the beautiful camp ground, a fairy tale beech tree forest marks the first part of the day. The steady pass crossing has only one downside: on the other side the marks turn from red-white to blue-white and they did not have a lot of blue paint. This marks your entry into Kükes County. We lost track on the way down twice: the first time an arrow-shaped marking drove us into the forest, but brought us right to an upwelling spring between the leaves as shown in one of the pictures. Maybe that arrow was there for that reason? The second time we were hoping to avoid the full descent to the Lumi I Shales river, so we kind of did that to ourselves. We had aan epic scenery for our slightly exaggerated tortilla lunch. We ended up in Breg Lumi, not entirely unwillingly: there is a Google street view picture on Google Earth that shows the little bar there. Nine thirsty men can make a bar tender's week (month?) here!
Truth be told: the locals and their hospitality yielded us a pretty impressive headache the next day. But that too is an essential part of a trip to Albania! Make sure to ask for Nicolah (....). He also offered us to go by his parental house up the hill side the next day to ask his brother to guide us over the pass (again implying that a small fee would surely be helpful). We refused and regretted that the next day...
This one is easy going with enough houses sprinkled over the valley to never feel alone.
We used our own stoves and food to cook our meal inside the little bar, but this day can be done without a tent, if you ask to stay in the little pool table house.
Weitere Infos und Links
Street View image of the little bar: https://earth.app.goo.gl/?apn=com.google.earth&ibi=com.google.b612&isi=293622097&ius=googleearth&link=https%3a%2f%2fearth.google.com%2fweb%2f%4042.3040563,19.7969438,350.29407615a,0d,60y,234.46697218h,85t,0r%2fdata%3dIjAKLEFGMVFpcE9sTmtieU0xR1gwSjdudnBOYUxaQ0RxbW85TnNaYmFCb1NpdFlHEAU
We ended in Breg Lumi because a rain shower drove us inside the little bar and the beer kept us there. Nicolas is the village primary school teacher who speaks English and knows quite a bit of history. He will voluntarily help you out as translater/guide and obviously deserves a little payment for that too. He managed to have us sleep in the small pool table building next door, where we slept on the floor for 1€pp. This price will probably rise quickly, we were simply the first ever to ask. They initially offered us the hospital, but that is worth the visit more than it is worth the stay.
This hike is the perfect compensation for the great adventure of the first day. Don't walk too long without seeing a mark, but other than that, it is self-explanatory. Once you crossed the pass south of Qafa e Agrit, slowly descent to the river. Once you are walking along the river, the pass between Marja Eshrelit and Marja Shtrëzes lies waiting for you on your right hand side for the next day. The old American hospital with bright red roof marks the end of this hike.
The starting point can only be reached on foot. The end point can be reached by car from Teth.
Anywhere. The local teacher doubles as tourist police.
Anreise mit der Bahn, dem Auto, zu Fuß oder mit dem Rad
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